Plant recovery/growth so far

• pH:
• Temp:
• KH:
• GH:
• NH4:
• NO2:
• NO3: 10-20
• PO4: 2.0
• Iron:
• Dosing: 10 mL Flourish, 1 ppm iron chelate, 2 tsp Equilibrium
• NO3:PO4 Cumulative Dosing Ratio:

Notes:
The rasbora with the wound/red sore on its side was lying on the floor of the tank, gasping, so I euthanised it today (put fish into a cup with some tank water and put it into freezer until dead).

Otherwise, I saw three shrimp today, the most I've seen at any one time, proof that at least some of them are out and about.

I've been ramping up in Flourish/iron chelate dosing to a very high amount of 10 mL Flourish daily (recommended levels are 5 mL once or twice a week) and 1 ppm iron chelate, and the water is still crystal clear. The UV sterilizer seems to work well at zapping whatever was left of the green water. It's definitely much more convenient than the diatom filter. I will probably return the diatom filter this weekend.

It seems, for some reason, that not much of the phosphates/nitrates have been used up. The Rotala indica/rotundifolia has not flourished as I had hoped; it seems to be stalling in place. New growth is stunted. The hairgrass and glosso have recovered from the green water and are back to growing at their usual rate. The Ludwigia peruensis/glandulosa is doing well, new leaves are growing in pretty quickly. The new leaves are more of a reddish pink, rather than the purple I'm hoping for, though. The Ammania senegalensis is doing all right, it's been shedding its leaves, but new leaves are growing in a pale orange/pink.

The Rotala magenta is still looking pretty pitiful. There is some new leaves growing in, but the rest of the leaves are melting, and the new leaves are small and green. Most people seem to recommend low nitrate levels (5-10 ppm) coupled with higher phosphate levels (1-2 ppm) for Rotala macrandra/magenta, so I'm going to try to get the nitrate levels to around 10 ppm. I don't like to have the nitrates much lower than 10, because the other plants will start to show nitrate deficiency. Also, when the ratio gets skewed towards low nitrates/high phosphates, more blue green algae (BGA, cyanobacteria) starts appearing. I see some small bits of BGA in the new sprouting leaves of the ludwigia repens.

I decided to add 2 tsp of Equilibrium to see if that helps with the stunted Rotala indica/rotundifolia. I had read also that extra Ca+ seems to help the Rotala macrandra (I usually look at recommendations for macrandra, even though I have magenta, since macrandra is more common and the growing conditions are similar), despite most documented plant descriptions stating that the macrandra prefers soft water.